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  » The Caravan

The Caravan

Boran - Pamiri Storm

Boran Photograph by Karakul Lake (Pamirs)

Journey: Taxkorgan to Beijing
Breed: Pamiri (local stock)
Age: 10-15 years

Of all the horses I've ever possessed, Boran has been by far my greatest challenge and possibly my greatest asset to come. The callenge of owning him has not been understanding the stallion, its been understanding the system that bred him here in Xinjiang.

Xinjiang horse markets are characteristically brutal and Kasghar's is no exception. Horse's are always male, crimped, pruned and expected to to preform. Uyghurs expect their stallions to explode from a start and stop on a dime. Showmanship & strength easily beat brains and demeanour. Donkeys plough the field, not stallions. Horses here are a status symbol and a potent source of individual pride.

A rider can choose a horse, but the horse must first accept the rider. I know this now, for I've learnt more from Boran, than from any other horse since Rosie.

Compared to Pakistan, Uyghurs take a much greater pride in their steeds, but still treat them just as harshly. Within days of having him, Boran refused to be saddled or bridled. At dinner time he'd lunge at whoever approached if eating and panic if anyone came up too quickly. He was particularly sensitive around his mouth and asking him to accept the bit was a frustrating challenge. I dreaded every day.

Throughout the first month, this demon horse from hell, escaped three times and caused endless delays each morning. He'd obviously been handled badly previously. Xinjiang locals like to tighten bit straps to the limit to give themselves absolute control over their equines. As a result, getting a bridle on Boran was like asking someone to volunteer to be hit and solving the dilemma of bridling him meant treating him in completely the opposite manner.

All this horse needed was respect and with the help of a good number of horse hands, who know much better than I, he's now transformed from warcharger to loyal friend. Slow movements and constant encouragement mean that he understands he will be malhandled no more. Our entire team feed him well and he currently allows anyone in our party to saddle or bridle him.

Boran is very brave and rarely pauses whilst riding. Since horses in Xinjiang are mostly used with a 'trap' attached, Boran prefers a fast (bone jarring) rising trot over distance, and he's extremely reluctant to canter or gallop. By Xinjiang standards he is of medium build, jet black, fairly broad-chested and wide hoofed. He still has a prickily temper but given the terrain we're passing over the trait suits the challenge well.

Friendship cannot be bought, but it can be earned. As every passing day shows slow improvements between us it will be especially hard to let go of this big hearted horse as the finish line draws near.